Tag Archives: argentina

What a grand old place is Buenos Aires…

Buenos Aires; we had gone full circle. After leaving here 5 weeks earlier, we had made it back in one piece with many more adventure stories to share.

After finding our way to our last B&B, Palermo Viejo in the district of the same name, we got ourselves settled and showered, and headed out to dinner. We were famished after our Iguazu Falls very full play day!

Not sure where to go, we wandered aimlessly for a while, even tried on an outfit or two until the hunger pangs kicked in, and then we got down to finding food business. Found this great little restaurant off the main drag, not far from where we were staying, which had a courtyard out the back, mood lighting, a great menu, and a waiter that spoke fabulous English. Just what the doctor ordered. To top it all off, it was classic Argentinian ice-cream for dessert on the way back… perfecto!

Given how hot it was, eg 35 oC one day and 36 oC the next, we structured our sight-seeing accordingly. Which translates to mainly moving from shopping centre to shopping centre, checking out the main bits on the way.

Day one was in Recoleta mainly. El Ateneo – the most amazing bookshop based in an old theatre, gorgeous. Lots of great shopping at Patio Bullrich, which we had been starved of up until this point. Just a great area to spend time in really. We could have all done serious damage to the credit card… well we did do a little, but nothing to savage!

Day two was spent in the city centre; the Obelisk, the Plaza del Mayo, the Presidential abode etc, but then it got too hot again. So another shopping centre was sought. Only lunch this time, no shopping. Had another good look around, and then went in search of ice-cream to top it off. Once done, we piled into a cab to head back to our pad. Nearly didn´t make it though as the taxi-driver almost took on a bus with the nose of the car, but no harm done and we made it back safe and sound.

After a little R&R, and a preliminary packing of the bags, it was time to wander the local streets in search of whatever really; oh and dinner. Our return flight heading to Melbourne was at 2:30am, meaning we were leaving the B&B at approx midnight, so plenty of time to loiter with intent!

Except… we got caught in a full-on storm, wind and heavy rain lasting approx 30 mins, and serious enough to make all of us really wet. Fortunately it wasn’t cold, other than when the breeze blew, so we decided to push on regardless. We did know though that we were not after a dining place with full-blown air-conditioning blasting away. That would have been too much like torture!

Given how early we were by Argentinian standards (ie restaurants open for dinner at 9pm), we found a delightful place not far from our pad that were serving “snacks”. Now I have to tell you, we’re talking full on hamburgers and sandwiches which were enormous, but nothing overly fancy schmancy. We were by this stage, more than happy with that arrangement.

So we scoffed our snacks, used the time to reflect on the highlights and the not so experiences of the previous 5-6 weeks, moved on to the ice-cream shop for our one last chance at dessert (my, the Argentinians do a fabulous ice-cream) and headed back to finalise flight preparation! You know, showers, comfortable clothes, last decent cup of tea…

Before we knew it, the taxi was out front and we were piling into it. Said all our goodbyes, congratulating ourselves on yet another successful adventure and then we were whisked off into the midnight sky, on route to the airport.

What a trip…
What an adventure…
What to do next?
Antartica is on the radar. Alaska would be good too. Back to South America, like Brazil and Chile, would also be wonderful… so many choices!

Salta; what a great place to R&R…

and didn´t we need it…

After our border dramas, all we wanted to do was curl up in a feotal position and sleep!
Actually, it wasn´t that bad really, but our bodies were craving the need to park somewhere for a few days, not have to pack a bag, and do some laundry and generally sleep until you woke; and Salta provided that.

We stayed in a lovely, family run B&B Posada de la Nubes.
Even had the two family dogs bouncing around. And we experienced rain again. Not that we hadn´t on the trip to date, but the sound of it on your roof as you woke (as opposed to on the tent top) really was a most pleasing sound.

Suffice to say, we didn´t do too much, other than walk around, eat, drink; oh and enjoyed a little Brazilian type ¨carnivale¨. That was fun.

The R&R set us up perfectly for the next leg….Iguazu Falls

4 hrs to go 100 metres…

Well wasn´t that fun! NOT…

We left Tupiza at approx 9am and got to the Bolivian border at approx 10:15am. Working out what to do and in what order was not easy. Some of the border police saw us walking around a little lost, so directed us to a queue, the going-into Argentina queue. It was soooo long. And it was sssoooo hot. We joined the end, and knew we were in for a bit of a wait…

Whilst doing so, we noticed a queue on the other side of the road, which looked like a going-into Bolivia queue. Upon further investigation however, it turned out to also be the leaving Bolivia queue too. Blimey!

So we left a couple of us with the bags in the first queue, while 2 of us went in search of getting a stamp finalising leaving Bolivia; which in effect meant we joined queue #2.

In the middle of this 100m strip of road, there is a sign with Bolivia on one side and Argentina on the other. Unfortunately for us, we were on the Argentinian side when we joined. The local Bolivians however did not want to be seen crossing over to the Argentinian side, and therefore created their own entry point to the queue at that sign, meaning they were pushing in front of us! ggggrrrr… We ended up getting pushed back to twice as far away from where we started. Well we were not happy I can assure y0u, but we had people in front of us allowing it to happen. So we started to make a fuss. My new best friend and I that is.

She was standing behind me and she spoke Spanish, which was most helpful, and she knew I was getting cross with the locals pushing in, as was she, so… she started to make noise in Spanish, and I in English. So much so that one of the police came to find out what was going on. Once explained, he relayed the message to the locals to go to the back of the queue, but only for the locals from now on; which meant we were no closer! ggggrrrr

With that, after a cold, thirst-quenching, life-saving coca-cola, we took issues into our own hands. Whilst I kept our spot in the queue, my partner in crime slowly but surely regained our original position. Then when the time was right, we all moved forward. We as in us, my new best friend, and her counterparts. And we got away with it, thank goodness.

Fortunately, when at the window inside the office, the Bolivian officials were more interested in talking amongst themselves when checking our passports, that even though they were stamping 5 passports with 2 people in possession of them, they didn´t seem to care.

Goal achieved; passports stamped. We had officially left Bolivia and were now in no mans land. With that, we regained our spot in the going-into Argentina queue, with our bags and the rest of us. Phew!

Ahhh, spoke to soon though. This queue was soooooo slow.
There were hundreds of people queueing and  1, sometimes 2, immigration police only manning the window. Excruiatingly slow. Every time one person got their passport stamped, the queue, per individual, inched their bags and their bodies along a little. And it was getting hotter…

Then we had more locals trying to push in ahead.
There was no way we were going to tolerate that a 2nd time, so this time we started the noise, and then the Spanish speakers, once they understood what was happening, joined in. Police arrived again, only to have this new lot moved to the back of the queue. Only they didn´t.

We spotted the same family sometime later not far behind us, but in front of our new best friend and her Argentinian buddies. So we took it upon ourselves to inform her. She then relayed it to the Argentinians and they went off!! Making more noise than we could ever have made. It worked though, and they were moved on again. We suspect though that they would have just tried again further down the line. But by this time it was not our problem as we were edging closer to THE window…

We finally got there, in front of the window, and then the young bloke serving me decided to tag-team with his comrade half way through and the process had to start again. In the meantime I had a local push in in front of me trying to do something quickly. Well that was the last straw, and he coped both barrels as did the immigration chap.

¨Go away and wait your turn; I´ve been here for 4 hours; don´t you dare¨ etc etc and then to the official ¨give me my passports now, stamped right now; don´t you dare either¨ etc etc. Suffice to say the local left, and passports were stamped, and we were finally done…

We were officially in Argentina. Now to the bus station as we had to get a bus to Salta. Fortunately we found one that was due in approx an hour, so we took that option. We had to changeover at Jutuy but that was OK. We figured we have a bit of a wait at that spot as it was only a 4 hour drive, we were departing at 4:45pm and changeover wasn´t until 11pm. Little did we know…

An hour into the journey and we were pulled over by passport control. Each and every one of us had to leave the bus, collect our bags and stand in the queue in front of their office; boys to the left, girls to the right. It was like something out of a movie, seriously.

Anyway, they checked passports and went through every bag of every person. Not a pleasant experience at all, but by then we were so over it by that stage that we would do almost anything to just get where we needed to get too. Was this incident related to our noise making capability at the border? I don´think so, but the thought did cross my mind…

We eventually arrived in Salta Argentina at 1:30am.
What a day…

Buenos Aires, in the heat…

Blimey! To step out of that plane, after 24 hours of flying into 36oC heat was enough to make you want to turn around there and then and go back from whenst you came.
But we managed to survive it OK, but only just. Fortunately the taxi man who collected us had decent air-con so that eased the pain a little.

Odd how you arrive the same day as you leave isn´t it?

He delivered us to a fabulous boutique hotel. The Gurda Hotel.
We were in the Polo room. It was late afternoon and we were stuffed. Finally catching up with the Hornes was great though. They had come in on a different flight (having been upgraded to Business Class with pod beds!!) and arrived a number of hours earlier, much brighter than us.

But a cup of tea and a chat soon got us on the road to recovery, and we went off in search of dinner. Given restaurants open at 8:30pm, there was no rush. So we checked out these interesting miniture Christmas Tree sculptures, come art pieces, in one of the parks opposite our hotel.

We moved on and decided on a restaurant called Herbabeum. Whilst we were not sure what we were getting ourselves into, the place looked really interesting so we gave it a shot anyway. Vegetarian it was, as potentially indicated by the name. My mushroom vegie burger wasn´t bad but Daughter had troubled coming at the veggie cheese salad, which was predominately green leaves and blobs of cheesy sludge! The classic Limonade was to die for though. A humourous experience nonetheless.

We were well and truly ready to lie down once we returned. Sleep was most certainly beckoning us…zzzzzzz

Up bright and early for a chockablock day of sight-seeing, before heading off to our next destination, Lima Peru. After a fabulous breakfast, we hit the streets. We made our way to La Boca, the home of Diego Maradona. After understanding the god-like status of Diego, a tour etc, we were treated to a rendition of typical match day at La Boca. A most entertaining couple of minutes, but not so sure I´d want to be there for the real thing…

Just around the corner, we ventured into La Caminita, where we explored the very colourful streets of the tango-inspired decor, and the dance itself of course. A well deserved drink could not come quick enough!

Getting back to the hotel proved a little testing as we hadn´t realised just how far we had drifted away from our hotel, only to find that getting there was a long, slow, hot, process. Whilst we made it, we were definitely suffering. But no rest for the wicked as they say! A quick gallon of cold water and then back into a cab for the drive back to the airport… Lima, here we come.

Adventure Time again… South America, here we come!

Leaving, on a jet plane,
don’t know when I’ll be back again,
oh babe I hate to go…

Are you hearing the tune as you read this?

To clarify…
“Leaving on a jet plane”… YES, Aerolineas Argentinas 23 Dec 2010
“Don’t know when I’ll be back again”… actually is 27 Jan 2011
“I hate to go”… that’s not correct either; WE CAN’T WAIT!
How exciting…

Here’s where we are going and what we are doing, for now…

Click on this link to download…2010_Itinerary-PeruBoliviaArgentina

Follow as we take Peru, Bolivia and Argentina by storm… well kind of!
Next stop, Lima